On one episode of a certain old British TV show, one of the main characters goes to work in a bad bra. The bra is so uncomfortable that she can’t stop contorting her arms to scratch herself, and a male coworker asks what’s wrong. She explains the problem, and her coworker is so disturbed by the incident, he vows to design her the world’s most comfortable bra. Of course, this new bra — while initially comfortable — winds up literally bursting into flames.
No female or otherwise breast-possessing viewer will be particularly surprised by the ending. Who hasn’t worn a bra that’s so itchy, sweaty, pointy, or chafe-y, it might as well have been on fire. Fortunately, since the pandemic, it’s become a lot more socially acceptable to favor comfort over confinement, and it’s easier to find less constricting options. The bad ones are still out there, though, so here are some tips on finding a new bra you don’t wish would spontaneously combust.
Ditch the Department Store
First things first, if you want to find the comfiest bras, get out of the department store lingerie department. Most department stores no longer do proper bra fittings, and the ones that do often get the sizing wrong. The same is true for those big bra chain stores that can’t be mentioned here by name. If they do offer fittings, they do it with a tape measure and your clothes on. Most barely glance at your chest before eyeballing a size — and few even carry the full range of bra sizes.
You could consider going to a proper lingerie store and getting a professional fitting, but you might encounter the same. In the best case scenario, the fitting specialist will get up close and personal before assigning you your actual size. From there, however, she’ll bring out a bouquet of wire and lace fit for a queen with no need to breathe or sit. Utter phrases like “wireless bras” or “you know, something machine washable?” and you might just give her a panic attack.
Your best bet for comfort is to shop online or at least at some kind of athleisure store. You’ll find a greater selection of styles and sizes that can’t be used to pick a lock or strain cheese curds. In other words, the internet is your best bet if you want to move away from wires and push-up pads, toward gentler support. For the comfiest styles, look for sports bras with firm bands and padded cups, sturdy bralettes with modal fabrics, and anything without underwire.
Go Wireless
The first iteration of the modern underwire was invented around the early 1890s, unbelievably by a woman. Who knows what Ms. Marie Tucek was thinking when she patented a bra with a metal plate under the breasts for support? Maybe if you’re accustomed to wearing a corset all day, an underwire bra might seem like the better option. At any rate, things really took off from there, and every woman on earth learned the “scoop and swoop” method.
If you’re not familiar, that’s the technique of lifting your tatas with your hands and getting them into just the right position. This is pretty much mandatory if you want to wear underwire without cutting off circulation to the bottom halves of your bosoms. It’s also a good indicator of what the function of a bra has been for more or less the past two decades. It’s all about holding them up and getting the most desirable look at the time; it’s not about how you feel.
Now, however, you have the option to just say no to chest scaffolding. If you want to be comfortable in your bras, it’s pretty much a necessity to swap underwire for something softer. A firm elastic band is a gentler choice, especially if you can find one that doesn’t roll or rid up. Seamless sports bras with molded foam cups or mesh under-bands can also add support without suffocating. Or, try a v-neck plunge or halter and let the straps do the work of creating cleavage.
Find Friendly Fabrics
The final phase of bra freedom is to figure out the fabrics that work best for your body. Even the comfiest seeming bra can feel great at the store, then impossibly sweaty or itchy with actual wear. It can take some trial and error to find the bra fabrics and materials that work for your body, and you may have some failed experiments. Once you know what you don’t like, however, it’s much easier to get a feel — literally — for what not to bother with at the store.
As a general rule, you usually can’t go wrong with general athletics companies and high-end athleisure brands. While there are exceptions, most of these companies use bra fabrics designed to be soft, smooth, breathable and moisture-wicking. This definitely doesn’t apply to all sports bra brands: there are plenty of low-quality styles that trap sweat or get itchy. Use your best judgment and go for familiar brands you’d trust for other products, like gym clothes.
If you’re looking for something a little less hefty, try natural fibers like cotton or hemp. (Bamboo is also an option, though most conventional bamboo sold in clothing today is heavily processed.) Natural fabrics are less likely to trigger itching in people with skin sensitivities, and can also be more breathable. Also be sure to avoid bras with “chafe points”, ie. metal closures, lacy bits, or exposed hooks or buttons that can scratch your skin.
Free to Be A or D
As mentioned before, hunting down the most comfortable bra could take a little legwork. Every body is different, so the bra you read or hear about isn’t necessarily the one for you. You know better than anyone else which styles, materials, and sizes have been comfortable in the past. Trust your judgement and be patient as you experiment to find a bra that gets you through the work day without a snag.